The following four large pieces are described in detail.
Vamp: the general name of the whole outer part of the shoe. It includes parts of the shoe lining, before help sideways position, tongue, transverse gallbladder, help site, after the set of parts, inside and outside the shoe parts, elastic parts of rolling tongue.
1. Shoes and gallbladder parts:
Are parts of shoes (i.e. the instep part), is the most prominent part in the general upper part, in the production of high quality leather and style change by the shoe lining to reflect.
2, front side side body parts:
Located on both sides of the shoe lining, inside and outside is divided into the bottom of it, sticky soles, connecting the upper shoe lining, wrapped in the front on both sides of the foot. It bears the maximum pressure of the human body, so it is the most comfortable part of the shoe, and it is also the most vulnerable part of the quality problem.
3, part of the tongue:
The connection is part of the shoe lining, shoe lining to the foot back extension of the site, the tongue is the role of a people close to the back foot, which is not easy to fall off, on the one hand and play the role of beautifying the vamp, tongue appearance is smooth, appearance is correct, the whole spirit of shoes.
4, cross bile: located in tongue and shoe connecting parts of the horizontal decorative belt is:
(1) occlusion of the joints between the shoes and the gall and the oblique body;
The change of the cross style used for common touch shoes;
The foot to further tightening is not easy to fall off.
5, the middle and outer parts of the waist: in the human foot's inner foot and outer feet, it comfortably enwrapped the middle part of the human foot, connecting the front, back and bottom, playing a connecting role.
6. The posterior part:
People wrapped around the site of the heel, which according to the human heel shape making arc shape, a square bread to live after the heel is not easy to fall off, the one hand cannot pack too tightly, to avoid long "".
7, rolling tongue:
It is wrapped with leather welt exposed cut, on one hand the leather is not easy to be quickly wear, one hand to prevent the shoe extension deformation, generally use the cut strips of thin skinned or wearable PU wrapped shoe is cut, so called "wrapped tongue", commonly known as "rolling tongue".
8. The loose zone:
Is in elastic and elastic, on both sides of the outer elastic tongue in the combination part of the inner cavity in elastic shoe tongue and shoe lining, its purpose is to increase the elasticity of the shoe, which is easy to wear and not easy to fall feet.
Two. Shoe interior: the integral part of the shoe, which includes the interior of the shoe, the Hong Kong treasure and other auxiliary materials.
1. Inside the shoes:
Divided into parts in the front part of shoes, heel, set, using thin and breathable pigskin, sheepskin, there are a few high-grade leather shoes used in making parts before and after according to the established norms and suture material attached to the vamp sewing special attention is generally set in after sewing with anti suede, the aim is to increase friction and heel shoes, to walk off the foot is not easy.
2, Hong Kong treasure:
Commonly known as the "hold", made of a special material, when the shoe on the upper part of the rear cover and inside the toe cap and shoes, is on the toe shoes tail not easy to deformation, equivalent to the effect of "suit shoulder".
3. Other auxiliary materials:
The main interlining, cotton, needle reinforcing belt, are placed between the inner and upper auxiliary handle, reinforcing stereotypes, enhance tension effect.
Sole: the overall bottom material of the shoe is called the outer bottom, the middle bottom, the cushion foot.
1. Outsole:
The part of the sole part that can be seen directly in contact with the ground is made mainly of rubber, TPR|PU and other materials. It includes:
(1) the film: the part of the front and the ground in contact with the ground and the part on the bottom of the waist;
Heel: the part of the sole which is in contact with the ground;
(3) skin: stick to the heel department to enhance the wear-resistance.
The welt attached to between the vamp and the sole, used for waterproof, strengthen adhesion and appearance.
2. Middle bottom:
The naked eye can not see the part in the sole component, is located in the insole and outsole, made of special materials, with a waist and arch radian consistent steel bar, called hook heart, also called the "waist iron". The role of the middle bottom is to make the sole strong and not easy to deform.
3. Foot:
The part that is directly contacted with the foot part in the sole part, the middle facing side is covered with soft EVA (a synthetic material similar to foaming material), and the role of the foot pad is to make people feet comfortable and breathable when they are wearing.
皮鞋材质的基础知识
Basic skin material
First, cowhide
Characteristics: at present, leather shoes made of cowhide are the majority of the market. They can be pressed into many different patterns. The main characteristics are: this quality is full, delicate, elastic, flexible and breathable, and wear-resistant.
Special note: it is worth noting that the open edge bead and the leather is very similar, the two surface bright. But the difference is that the open edge bead leather is made of cowhide polished surface after treatment, and the paint surface is coated with a layer of thin film.
Two. Sheepskin (goat / sheep)
Characteristics: the grain is fine, soft, comfortable and breathable, and it is also divided into goat skin and sheep skin.
Goat - also known as the golden sheep leather, the fibrous tissue is solid, pores in a semicircle arrangement, clear and detailed embossed leather;
Sheep skin - a soft hand, small pores, a flat round, a number of pores to form a group of rows, distribution uniform.
Three, oil / wax
Characteristics: Oil / wax is made of leather and leather tanning by immersion into the;
Skin color, and have a strong sense of anti tension (cortex, flexible), waterproof, wear resistance and cold resistance (winter skin is not broken) are good; make wax is leather cannon slippery luster, and has the advantages of the former. In the process of wearing, it can be seen that it is comfortable and soft, and the cortex reflects the value of the merchandise, at the same time, it also has the breath of leisure. It is suitable for business casual occasions and is also convenient for daily cleaning.
Special note: Oil / wax drop of water will be looking for black spots, because the oil absorbent is strong, but a few minutes later the skin naturally dry; without oil, wipe clean can keep the upper half wet cloth.
The difference is: youpi fight wax and wax play with water generally made of cowhide, leather is soft, used for shoes. The oil is generally used in leather and thick leather made for casual shoes and casual shoes.
Four, paint
Characteristics: bright color, surface bright. The softness and comfort are excellent; it is both beautiful and fashionable, convenient for daily care, without the use of shoe oil and shoe wax.
Five. Abrasive skin
Characteristics: ground skin and cowhide are made from leather: thick leather, good abrasion resistance, many colors, strong absorbency, breathable and soft skin than head coat, comfortable and at the same time, with a rough smell, which can embody individuality.
Six, Jing leather
Features: leather is made of sheepskin Weaver suede; leather soft, anti wrinkle color, easy collocation effect; wearing comfortable, elegant appearance, and is willing to have a sense of fashion.
High grade leather
Features: leather has the flexibility of operation rules without lines but not fancy, feel good; comfortable, breathable, looks very upscale, leather and good care.
Two. Kangaroo skin
Characteristics: it belongs to the rare leather, leather softness, texture meticulous, good flexibility; wear comfortable, breathable, and high-grade appearance, reflect the taste and will not appear publicity;
Special note: kangaroo skin with minor blisters, which is decided by the growth environment and the characteristic of the kangaroo.
Three. Wild boar skin
Features: Leather pores, breathable, soft leather, pattern rules, not exaggerated; after wearing both grades, comfortable, breathable, and beautiful appearance.
Four, deerskin
Characteristics: high leather, thin and tender, soft and natural texture, but not very regular. After wearing it, it feels very comfortable, the cortex is very soft and breathable, and the appearance is high-grade and beautiful.
Special note: due to special characteristics of deerskin fiber structure, slightly touch the hard things that will cause serious damage, so a relatively large degree of easy wear, wear should pay special attention to.
Special leather
First, crocodile skin
Characteristics: crocodile skin is a rare leather material, highlighting the atmosphere. After wearing it, it looks high-grade and beautiful, and highlights the spirit of the host, showing the distinguished identity and extraordinary temperament of the host.
Special Description: crocodile skin is usually made of crocodile, head or tail skin, which shows thick and hard scales. The cortex is crisp, and it is not suitable to fold with hands, otherwise it will crack easily.
Two. The skin of the ostrich (divided into grain and no grain, its tensile force is four times that of the cowhide)
Features: light, soft and flexible cortico; comfortable, flexible, distinctive and prominent personality.
Three. Seal skin
Features: precious leather, rough skin lines, comfortable and upscale, high taste and unique temperament.
Four. Lizard skin
Characteristics: high grade leather, exquisite grain has rules, good gloss; feel soft and comfortable, beautiful, gentle and elegant, high-grade appearance.
Five. Shark skin
Features: a slight pattern, soft cortex, comfortable wear, high appearance and beautiful appearance.
Six. Elephant skin
Characteristics: it belongs to the rare leather material. The cortex is rough and the atmosphere is thick and solid. It is natural and irregular. After wearing it, it looks high-grade and beautiful. At the same time, it shows the soul of the host and embodies the distinguished identity and extraordinary temperament of the host.
Seven, peacock skin
Characteristic: texture meticulous, beautiful, pleasing, breathable, wear a unique gentleman style, stylish and elegant.
Inner material properties
One.
Features: thick, wear-resistant and smooth; it feels comfortable, breathable and wearable, and looks like a grade.
Special Description: Generally speaking, cattle hide with cattle mats, mostly used for high-end leisure shoes, imported shoes.
Two. The inner skin of the sheep's skin
Characteristics: the skin is fine and soft; after wearing, it will make the whole foot feel comfortable, good air permeability, and display grade.
Special Description: in general, sheep skin with sheep pads, this makes the shoes more grade.
Three, Ipineri (pigskin, punched pig)
Characteristics: soft, large pores, breathable, sweaty, comfortable wearing morning meeting, and keep the foot refreshing.
Special note: Ipineri meets wet or sweaty feet there will be little discoloration, especially dark skin. Generally speaking, pig's skin with pig pads, cattle mats, PU pads, pig's cattle mats are mostly used for suit shoes, and the PU pads in pigs are mostly used for leisure shoes, such as large slippers.
Bottom material properties
A, a
Features: delicate texture, smooth, good permeability, elasticity and good bending, and the smell of a fragrance; put on foot is in contact with the ground will feel very comfortable, elastic, breathable, can keep feet dry, and most can reflect the taste and high-grade shoes.
Special note: because the properties of leather material itself, there are no water and not wear, it is not in the wet dress, and after the purchase, should be for the sole and sole (rubber) and wear.
In addition, the bottom can be divided into ordinary leather, leather, frosted leather sole injection. From a more complex production process, do not paste wear rubber sheet before use, so the price is expensive and has the advantages of full leather, frosted leather wear non slip; rather than the ordinary leather plus a roughing process, so the price is slightly more expensive, and looks more grades.
Two, imitation leather
Characteristics: the use of rubber material, has a smooth, lightweight, soft, elastic, breathable and strong adaptability (avoid the skin do not wear, adaptability is not strong); comfortable atmosphere, which reflects the high-end shoes and taste at the same time, wear-resistant and practical.
Three, half leather
Characteristics: both a breathable advantages, and rubber anti-skid wear characteristics.
Four. The bottom of the rubber sheet
Characteristics: light, soft, good wear resistance, good after wearing comfortable, and looks very class.
Special Description: rubber sheet bottom can be divided into rubber joint bottom, front and back palm combination rubber sheet bottom, rubber slope bottom. Rubber joint bottom, front and back composite rubber sheet bottom is suitable for men's suit shoes, rubber slope bottom and more suitable for semi casual shoes.
Five. Rubber molding bottom
Features: wear resistance, skid resistance, elasticity and bending degree are all good. In addition, because of the integration of shoe heel and shoe upper, the whole effect of shoes is good, comfort is good, elasticity is good, adaptability is strong, skid resistance, wear-resistant and practical.
Special Description: the rubber molding bottom is suitable for leisure shoes and semi casual shoes.
Six, PU molding bottom
Features: lightweight, soft and wear resistant (wear resistance is four times the plastic bottom), and the integrity of the shoes is good. It is light and comfortable, and looks beautiful.
Seven, TPR molding bottom
Characteristics: elastic, good wear resistance, easy to match the effect, and the integrity of the shoes, the shape of the shoes is beautiful, and very comfortable and practical.
Special Description: TPR molding bottom is more suitable for leisure shoes.
Eight, TR molding bottom
Features: elastic, wear-resistant, cold resistant, glossy, good overall effect, high quality appearance, air, and comfortable and practical.
Special Description: TR molding bottom is more suitable for leisure shoes.
Common sense of leather shoes nursing
One, leather shoes sales common sense
1, the shoe size represents the length of the shoe, the shoe type represents the fatness of the shoe, and the shoe size and the shoe type should be paid attention to when selling.
2, high arch customers should not use thin shoes or shoes with large decorative shoes, avoid grinding arch discomfort, wear;
3, in the morning to buy shoes, shoes size selection should be loose; at night buy shoes, shoes size selection should be a little tight;
4 basic standards, the so-called fit shoes: shoes and feet are both big and small but nevertheless; toes can move freely in the shoes; shoes firmly support the joint flank heel stable arch;
5 leather shoes, breathable, but wear resistance than leather, rubber soles, and avoid water, oil, acid and alkali bogey bogey, must be particularly careful when wearing a sticky layer, recommended glue, prolong life;
6, the standard unit of leather shoe size is different in the world, and there will be a certain difference in the size conversion (see the table below).
Two, correct wearing habits
1, to avoid the following inappropriate circumstances to wear leather shoes;
(1) rain and snow days, sports, mountaineering, motorcycles or bicycles;
(2) the slippery ground, rough ground, snow and sandy ground.
3. Tread water, gravel and hard material.
2, meet new shoes do not wear easily reluctantly, and should choose fit shoes or stockings, shoehorn;
3, try to avoid wearing the same pair of shoes for many days, leather shoes and sports shoes should be special for shoes, so as to prolong the life of wearing.
4, take off the shoes, do not step on the heel, so as to avoid heel heel phenomenon;
5, buy leather shoes, the first is the sole and rubber support, can not only protect the leather shoes, can play a non slip effect;
6, Ipineri wet water or long time there will be a little friction bleaching, we should wear matching socks;
7, shoes should not be affected with damp, rain leaching, water brush, exposure and fire, avoid leather deformation, surface cracking.
Three. The common sense of daily nursing
1, leather shoes for the first time to wipe oil, should be worn in front of the shoes.
2, regular (2 to 3 weeks) use the same color of the shoe ointment to wipe leather shoes, avoid the use of liquid shoe oil;
3, avoid the paste directly onto the surface of leather shoes, cloth shoes or should be coated on the shoes, and then spread the shoes;
4, keep the leather shoes dry and fresh.
5, prevent the environment of too high / low humidity and too much humidity of leather shoes. Otherwise, it is easier to appear pan nitrite, that is, the white alkaline substance on the skin surface, and the cortex in the area of Pan nitrate is obviously different from the cortex in other areas.
6. Do not wash and contact chemical solvents when cleaning the leather shoes.
7, with a soft brush / big shoes cloth brush the shoes, the shoes look along the convex surface without dirt contamination;
8, the body of the shoe heel and the seam position, with a brush off the dust (such as a shoelace, loosen the shoelace, then pointed brush cleaning, dirt from the outside is not easy to see);
9, squeeze a little clean oil on the cloth, covered with the whole shoe;
10, take another piece of cloth (do not use oil and clean cloth stained with a little cream mix) shoes, even painted the whole shoe;
11, use a clean soft cloth to polish the whole shoe.
12, in the last (such as no utility can be put in the newspaper instead).
Four. The nursing method of leather shoes after wetting
1, use the dry cloth with good water absorption to absorb water on the surface of leather shoes.
2. The shoes are built into the newspaper and replaced frequently in order to completely absorb the water.
3, to a certain extent, into the shoe stretcher or paper, leather shoes to prevent deformation;
4, put it in a cool place and let the leather shoes dry naturally. Do not expose the wet leather shoes to the sun, dry them next to the cool air or use the dryer, otherwise, you will have the phenomenon of exposure.
5, after complete work, according to the daily maintenance method maintenance.
Five. Leather care
1, cowhide, sheepskin: use high quality shoe paste and shoe cloth to remove dirt, use shoe cloth to use a little force on the upper to wipe the shoe gloss.
2, Jing leather, nubuck leather with a soft, gently rub away the stains, and rub in the same direction; or use the rubber eraser and Jing special skin cleanser to remove stains;
3, paint, oil: with half wet wipe.
Six. Leather care products
1, light rub: colorless, generally used for cleaning wax, help to clean and protect the leather shoes, but not for nubuck leather shoes made of leather, jing;
2, transparent shoe polish can be used for any shoes (except Jing leather, nubuck leather, leather shoes do) only in the upper cloth coated with a thin layer of transparent shoe polish can be painted too much will make the cortex become black;
3, color shoe polish (colored polish): for the same color leather shoes, do this, but not for nubuck leather, leather jing;
4, can be used for cleaning detergent paste: any color can also be used for cleaning shoes, leather, nubuck leather, but not for Jing skin, apply a little on the cloth, then clean the shoes, such as leather shoes have found signs of decolorization, should not be used;
5, Jing leather brush: clean the shoes before, the first to use Jing leather brush along the same direction to wipe the shoes, but only suitable for nubuck leather, leather and rubber Jing, the side can be used to wipe glue stains (for any cortex);
6, Jing skin water is divided into: black, brown, colorless. Before the use of Jing skin water, should first shake, and then to the shoes in the distance of spray medium, and then clean, suitable for leather shoes, frosted leather jing;
7, insole (full mat): more used for men's shoes, it can make leather shoes more suitable;
8, half pad: used for female gentle shoe toe position, but as in the heel pad can prevent the top heel;
9, AA glue: very small leather shoes for degumming at the same, this is the glue that must be used when;
10, yellow glue: used when adding padding.
Seven. Special care
1, interior, insole decolorization: apply wax or shoe wax to the interior, prevent decolorization, or cushion a thin layer in the shoes and often change to prevent decolorization;
2, the zipper is not smooth: with candles or shoe wax on the zipper;
3, if there is a little Pan Pan: nitrate nitrate, available slightly damp cloth stains, dry, with matching shoes with white or cream colored oil wipe pan nitrate part;
4, metal decorative button oxidation:
The silver buckle with the fine water, scrub or scrub gently wipe the black rubber, and transparent paste gently wipe the shoes;
The golden shoe buckle with transparent paste gently wipe the shoes;
Copper buckle or metal buckle: a little transparent nail polish can be used to prevent oxidation.
Special hints:
1, the shoe surface material is pure natural dermis, the skin pattern of different parts is completely different, the leather shoe pattern has slight difference to normal phenomenon.
2. Inside the leather shoes, it is made of the leather treated by water. It is a normal phenomenon that there is a slight drop in color.
In 3, when the time is too long, rolling tongue (at the edge of wrapping skin) natural wear is a normal phenomenon.
4, "wipe color skin" shoe upper by a variety of color layered combination, wear cleaning when falling is a normal phenomenon.
5, made of leather shoes because the seam craft process, between the sole and the upper is coated with floating gel in after a period of plastic illusion is a normal phenomenon.